Above is a gallery of winter-themed and/or Christmas-inspired sweaters from the recent shop that are not completely oblivious of the so-called Ugly Christmas Sweater craze. You know the sweaters: dizzying, Technicolor patterns; cartoon Christmas mice; beads, applique, embroidery—once worn in more-or-less festive earnest, and now worn in rare trans-generational irony by everyone from fun uncles and lacrosse moms to hipster millenials.
While this men’s shop doesn’t usually go in for what has lately become the annual UCS fad, we agree that there’s no ugly Christmas sweater like a vintage ugly Christmas sweater. But then again, does an ugly Christmas sweater have to be ugly?! I don’t really think the above ones are. And if there is a holiday license to go big in one’s fashion choices, I say use that power of self-expression for nice instead of naughty. Tis the season to go bright, go bold, and still be stylish: plus then you get to wear your favorite new old sweater way past Christmas morning.
Among the perks of collecting and selling vintage menswear are the random artifacts one unearths while digging through clothes in the usual antique shops, thrift stores and estate sales. I discovered the vintage MoMA kaleidoscope pictured above (the top one actually) and nabbed it thinking I’d figure out more about why I liked it later. It isn’t rare. Both kaleidoscopes pictured here are readily available on eBay or Etsy for $10-100 (and what cool vintage Christmas gifts they’d make). Those above are two of four similar kaleidoscopes designed by artist Ernest Trova between 1965 and 1974. According to etrova.org, the first version in black with white text was published by the Pace Gallery of New York in 1965; MoMA published a second version in red with black band and white text/figures, a third version in blue and white (above top), and a final version in lighter blue with blue and red landscape, which is labeled 1974 (pictured fifth and sixth above). According to The Kaleidocope Online Book, the “Trovascopes” (or at least the two pictured here) are most likely manufactured by the Steven Manufacturing Company, since their dimensions exactly match the Steven #150 model of the same time period. The initial two versions may be much rarer, since I wasn’t able to find any available images or listings for sale.
Ernest Trova (1927-2009) was a St. Louis pop artist and Surrealist most known for his abstract figural “Falling Man” sculptures (pictured last and second to last), which explored themes of man’s mechanization echoing a religious fall from grace. Becoming a kind of personal iconographic language, Trova widely repeated the figure of the Falling Man throughout his painting and 2-D work as well as more commercial objects like wristwatches and these kaleidoscopes, and indeed viewed all his art as one unified masterwork. Perhaps as compelling as the themes of spiritual and technological fall embodied in the Falling Man was Trova’s own fall from public acclaim. Once heralded as among the most important American artists working in the 1960s and 1970s–his art represented at the Guggenheim, Whitney, MoMA and Pace Gallery–Trova is now all but forgotten in comparison to his contemporaries like Warhol. Though Trova’s work seems to have much to do with serialization and commercialization, he was criticized for his commercial ventures like the wristwatches and kaleidoscopes. Without them though, I may never have come to know their creator or his wonderful Falling Man, changing with each turn of the kaleidoscope.
A pair of vintage-inspired fall/winter looks with menswear staples from classic, mostly American brands:
Top—Vintage two-piece tweed suit with 3-2 roll front (from Jack Bell of Philadelphia); 1960s unlined silk foulard necktie from the Harvard Coop Society; L.L.Bean Fair Isle wool sweater vest; 1970s leather & suede cap; vintage Florsheim Chelsea boot; repp silk scarf in black pattern; vintage Par-Temp trench in green/brown micro-houndstooth pattern.
Bottom—Paul Stuart striped cardigan; vintage Wrangler denim shirt; GAP slim-fit cords; vintage Lodenfrey navy wool toggle coat; Pendleton wool felt ascot cap; vintage Lacoste belt; L.L.Bean duck boots.
As fall and winter close in fast and the usual seasonal fabrics—corduroy, tweed, flannel—are lovingly bandied about fashion circles, I wanted to make sure that camel hair was not overlooked this year. Camel hair is prized for its natural warmth, texture and golden tan color, all of which make it well suited to cooler weather wear and seem to heighten the luxury of any article it comprises. Most associate camel hair with long overcoats or blazers (like the second and forth photos above), both prep classics. The camel hair coat originated in England as a long wrap coat with a belt worn between polo matches and known as a Polo Coat. The Polo Coat’s popularity in the United States rose with the advent of the sport throughout the 1920s until becoming a staple of the Ivy League look by the late 1920s and into the 1930s.
Camel hair garments now come in many other colors, patterns and forms that showcase the material’s natural richness. Blue, brown and gray-dyed camel hair (like the J.G. Hook sport coat pictured second to last) and houndstooth or Glen plaid patterns (like the Brooks Brothers example pictured third) are also commonly seen, though perhaps not as immediately recognizable on the rack as the familiar tan. Although we don’t have any current examples from the shop, camel hair sweaters, scarves, and especially socks are loved for their lightweight warmth and moisture wicking qualities. Camel hair sport coats can be worn all the way through early spring and can easily be dressed up or down, looking as good over jeans and plaid flannels as with neckties and buttondowns. Camel hair menswear makes a solid vintage option too as previous generations cast off their old camel hair coats and new generations of men fail to pick them up with the same gusto as they inherit their fathers’ tweeds. For now, there’s still plenty to go around on Etsy and eBay or in your local shop. Look for 100% camel hair, trusted brand names, natural (not padded) shoulders, and details like leather knot buttons, patch pockets and elbow patches. Like sheep sheared for wool, the camels are not sacrificed for their coats, an important consideration vintage or not—especially when you consider that friendly face in the very first pic!
With an American pedigree reaching back to the California Gold Rush, it doesn’t get much more vintage than Levi’s, and you certainly don’t have to be a vintage seller to know the name. What began as the ultimate workwear has evolved into a national association and worldwide obsession with denim and beyond. Denim is also its own world within the vintage business with experts scouring Levi’s tabs for big ‘E’s or little ‘e’s to determine blue jean gold. The Levi’s Vintage Clothing line aims to celebrate (and capitalize on) the brand’s beloved history by recreating classic pieces to original specifications using Levi’s own archives. Until recently, the line had its own informative website but was only available through select retailers. Now Levi’s has launched a stand-alone site that offers the line directly to the public and provides the historical background for many of the pieces. Organized into a 100-year timeline from 1878 to 1978, the new site places the shopping experience squarely in a historical context that invites exploration–whether or not you’re in the market for a $385 jean jacket. That’s right, the price point for these expert reproductions is anything but ‘vintage.’ While not truly vintage pieces, these are certainly the next best thing (to some, maybe better than the real thing). Above are some of my favorite pieces from the collection, but you’ll have to visit here for yourself to learn the details behind them.
This field jacket feature is for anyone like me who never really got over his Barbour jacket envy from all the recent years’ Barbour buzz, but who also could never bring himself to part with the hundreds of simoleons that the real thing costs (secondhand or not). Above is a small sampling of past, present and future field jackets (and field parkas) in the shop. They are “vintage” if you’re already counting as vintage the 1990s, the last time the classic field jacket was having enough of moment in the mainstream spotlight to be carried widely by the likes of J.Crew, GAP and Banana Republic. They share that collared, hip-length silhouette, some variation of cotton canvas fabric, and pockets-pockets-pockets, but offer plenty of charming variation too: collars can be canvas, corduroy or leather; colors range from undercover earth tones to bright primaries and plaids; interiors come unlined or insulated in flannel. And lightweight unlined parkas (like those pictured last) with their wet weather hoods and inner/outer contrast coloring make a nice alternative to the collared silhouette. Whether you take advantage of the recently “vintage” mainstream brands or the durability and field-weathered charm of its older vintages, the classic field jacket can make a pretty easy and affordable online buy on Etsy or eBay, that is, if you can get over your Barbour envy first.
A pair of vintage-inspired summer looks with menswear staples from classic, mostly American brands:
Top—1950s Thread & Thimble single-button sack jacket in olive green hopsack; 1980s Calvin Klein shirt; Gap (“Lived-In Slim” fit) twill khakis in bright blue; Birkenstock sandals; vintage Italian silk “Symphony Square” by Handcraft, Inc.; Ray-Ban Clubmaster in gold & tortoise.
Bottom—Vintage Brooks Brothers stripe linen shirt; Bally woven leather loafers; vintage straw hat; cutoff J.Crew white twill trousers; vintage yacht flag pattern belt; Polo Ralph Lauren cotton crew neck sweater.
A little photo essay on the local tobacconist in our college town, Maison Edwards of Ann Arbor, Michigan. Although it’s not exactly vintage menswear (there is a nice selection of men’s shaving accoutrement to go with the smoking paraphernalia), inside it feels a lot like what I’d want in a brick-and-mortar men’s shop. Wood everywhere, huge old French posters, studded leather chairs, yellowed walls (ok, maybe not those yellowed walls). Jazz crooning from the speakers that face out from the loft office mixes with the smoke off good cigars and easy conversation with strangers. Not every guy who comes in gives a second thought to his clothes, but I like to imagine the smoke shop gets more than its share of natty dressers. With mainstay local men’s shops largely a thing of the past, sneaking off to Maison Edwards for a smoke in nostalgic style can feel like the next best thing.
Summer months in the shop remind me that some of the best vintage is outdoorsman vintage! Much of the mystique of men’s vintage clothing (and women’s) can come from the former ideals of masculinity (or femininity) that various pieces evoke—as if to put on a porkpie hat, bomber jacket or slim sixties suit is to try on the manly personas of those who originally wore them. Nowhere does that seem clearer than in the man-vs-nature charm of vintage camping, fishing and hunting clothes. Leather, wool flannel and cotton canvas fabrics. Buffalo check and camouflage patterns. Boots for wading backwoods streams; thick, scratchy hunting pants to beat the early morning chill; hats and vests for holding shotgun shells and attaching lures. Sure, now we have performance fabrics and high-tech gear that are far superior in every way, except perhaps aesthetics. There is an obvious sportiness, durability and purpose to vintage outdoor clothing like those pieces in the above shop gallery, not unlike the men who once wore them.