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Jan 23 / admin

the new (old) sweater vest

Dirty Harry

1940s-50s vest

wire haired

sweater vest



sweater vest


Fair Isle. Argyle. Cable knit. Cardigan. There are as many sweater vest possibilities as there are, well, full sweater possibilities. But not since the 1990s sweater vest/T-shirt combo (à la Chandler Bing) has the sleeveless wonder enjoyed mainstream popularity. That’s one reason they make a solid vintage option. Like their more full fabric-ed cousin, the turtleneck, classic menswear may never completely abandon the sweater vest, but they are not readily available from current fashion retailers. Meanwhile vintage stores are flush with them, and it can be a good way to score older eras or designers that are otherwise difficult to find. Originally listed in the shop as a kind of taste experiment, or to see if anyone was still paying attention, sleeveless knits have emerged as a consistently strong seller.

At the heart of their appeal is the versatility and almost accessory status of the sweater vest. Somehow a sweater vest doesn’t feel like as much of a commitment as a full sweater or a jacket (although in execution it can be more of one). More like a hat or a pocket square, don one as a finishing touch, a boost of color or pattern or texture to pull an outfit together. With the resurgence of suits, and particularly three-piece suits, the sweater vest is already beginning to make its latest comeback. Sometimes billed as the “poor man’s three-piece suit,” the sweater vest is a wonderful way to freshen up and extend a suit’s life, dressing up or softening a suit look depending on the sweater vest at hand.

Jan 9 / admin

The (Style) Thing





The Thing Movie Style








The Thing Movie Style

For all those suffering through this week’s nationwide polar blast, maybe it won’t seem as weird as it is taking a 1980s cult horror film set in Antarctica as the blog’s latest style icon! Did you ever see John Carpenter’s “The Thing.” Granted: Kurt Russel technically wears only one complete outfit throughout the film’s action (which spans roughly a full day), but there’s plenty to like about winter wear in his and his crew’s (very) short-lived fashion statement–exploding bloody creature effects notwithstanding. Leather bomber with the upturned fur collar. Army green onesie anyone? Or the more usual layered shirts and puffy vest. Fur hooded parkas with ski goggles. Aviator sunglasses with leather side shields. Russel even owns the broad brimmed leather hat with strap. And the beard, oh the beard!

Dec 19 / admin

does your Ugly Christmas Sweater have to be ugly?

vintage ugly Christmas sweater

reindeer plaid

vintage ugly Christmas sweater

London Fog details


Eddie Bauer details


Above is a gallery of winter-themed and/or Christmas-inspired sweaters from the recent shop that are not completely oblivious of the so-called Ugly Christmas Sweater craze. You know the sweaters: dizzying, Technicolor patterns; cartoon Christmas mice; beads, applique, embroidery—once worn in more-or-less festive earnest, and now worn in rare trans-generational irony by everyone from fun uncles and lacrosse moms to hipster millenials.

While this men’s shop doesn’t usually go in for what has lately become the annual UCS fad, we agree that there’s no ugly Christmas sweater like a vintage ugly Christmas sweater. But then again, does an ugly Christmas sweater have to be ugly?! I don’t really think the above ones are. And if there is a holiday license to go big in one’s fashion choices, I say use that power of self-expression for nice instead of naughty. Tis the season to go bright, go bold, and still be stylish: plus then you get to wear your favorite new old sweater way past Christmas morning.

Dec 3 / admin

the Trovascope

MOMA kaleidoscope

kaleidoscope base

Trovascope interior

Falling Man interior

MOMA kaleidoscope

Trovascope detail

Study-Falling Man (Wheelman)

Back Camera


Among the perks of collecting and selling vintage menswear are the random artifacts one unearths while digging through clothes in the usual antique shops, thrift stores and estate sales. I discovered the vintage MoMA kaleidoscope pictured above (the top one actually) and nabbed it thinking I’d figure out more about why I liked it later. It isn’t rare. Both kaleidoscopes pictured here are readily available on eBay or Etsy for $10-100 (and what cool vintage Christmas gifts they’d make). Those above are two of four similar kaleidoscopes designed by artist Ernest Trova between 1965 and 1974. According to, the first version in black with white text was published by the Pace Gallery of New York in 1965; MoMA published a second version in red with black band and white text/figures, a third version in blue and white (above top), and a final version in lighter blue with blue and red landscape, which is labeled 1974 (pictured fifth and sixth above). According to The Kaleidocope Online Book, the “Trovascopes” (or at least the two pictured here) are most likely manufactured by the Steven Manufacturing Company, since their dimensions exactly match the Steven #150 model of the same time period. The initial two versions may be much rarer, since I wasn’t able to find any available images or listings for sale.

Ernest Trova (1927-2009) was a St. Louis pop artist and Surrealist most known for his abstract figural “Falling Man” sculptures (pictured last and second to last), which explored themes of man’s mechanization echoing a religious fall from grace. Becoming a kind of personal iconographic language, Trova widely repeated the figure of the Falling Man throughout his painting and 2-D work as well as more commercial objects like wristwatches and these kaleidoscopes, and indeed viewed all his art as one unified masterwork. Perhaps as compelling as the themes of spiritual and technological fall embodied in the Falling Man was Trova’s own fall from public acclaim. Once heralded as among the most important American artists working in the 1960s and 1970s–his art represented at the Guggenheim, Whitney, MoMA and Pace Gallery–Trova is now all but forgotten in comparison to his contemporaries like Warhol. Though Trova’s work seems to have much to do with serialization and commercialization, he was criticized for his commercial ventures like the wristwatches and kaleidoscopes. Without them though, I may never have come to know their creator or his wonderful Falling Man, changing with each turn of the kaleidoscope.

Nov 19 / admin

Fall/Winter Outfitter

men's fall/winter outfits


men's fall/winter outfits

A pair of vintage-inspired fall/winter looks with menswear staples from classic, mostly American brands:

Top—Vintage two-piece tweed suit with 3-2 roll front (from Jack Bell of Philadelphia); 1960s unlined silk foulard necktie from the Harvard Coop Society; L.L.Bean Fair Isle wool sweater vest; 1970s leather & suede cap; vintage Florsheim Chelsea boot; repp silk scarf in black pattern; vintage Par-Temp trench in green/brown micro-houndstooth pattern.

Bottom—Paul Stuart striped cardigan; vintage Wrangler denim shirt; GAP slim-fit cords; vintage Lodenfrey navy wool toggle coat; Pendleton wool felt ascot cap; vintage Lacoste belt; L.L.Bean duck boots.

Oct 15 / admin

camel season



Brooks Brothers

camel hair coat

gray camel hair


As fall and winter close in fast and the usual seasonal fabrics—corduroy, tweed, flannel—are lovingly bandied about fashion circles, I wanted to make sure that camel hair was not overlooked this year. Camel hair is prized for its natural warmth, texture and golden tan color, all of which make it well suited to cooler weather wear and seem to heighten the luxury of any article it comprises. Most associate camel hair with long overcoats or blazers (like the second and forth photos above), both prep classics. The camel hair coat originated in England as a long wrap coat with a belt worn between polo matches and known as a Polo Coat. The Polo Coat’s popularity in the United States rose with the advent of the sport throughout the 1920s until becoming a staple of the Ivy League look by the late 1920s and into the 1930s.

Camel hair garments now come in many other colors, patterns and forms that showcase the material’s natural richness. Blue, brown and gray-dyed camel hair (like the J.G. Hook sport coat pictured second to last) and houndstooth or Glen plaid patterns (like the Brooks Brothers example pictured third) are also commonly seen, though perhaps not as immediately recognizable on the rack as the familiar tan. Although we don’t have any current examples from the shop, camel hair sweaters, scarves, and especially socks are loved for their lightweight warmth and moisture wicking qualities. Camel hair sport coats can be worn all the way through early spring and can easily be dressed up or down, looking as good over jeans and plaid flannels as with neckties and buttondowns. Camel hair menswear makes a solid vintage option too as previous generations cast off their old camel hair coats and new generations of men fail to pick them up with the same gusto as they inherit their fathers’ tweeds. For now, there’s still plenty to go around on Etsy and eBay or in your local shop. Look for 100% camel hair, trusted brand names, natural (not padded) shoulders, and details like leather knot buttons, patch pockets and elbow patches. Like sheep sheared for wool, the camels are not sacrificed for their coats, an important consideration vintage or not—especially when you consider that friendly face in the very first pic!

Sep 30 / admin

Levi’s “Vintage” Clothing

vintage Levis

1970s Graphic Sweatshirt

1920s One-Pocket Sunset Shirt

1940s Graphic Tee

Suburban Cowboy Jacket

1960s Suede Bomber Jacket

1950s Embroidered Western Denim Shirt

1960s Striped Tee

1950s Hoodie

vintage Levis


With an American pedigree reaching back to the California Gold Rush, it doesn’t get much more vintage than Levi’s, and you certainly don’t have to be a vintage seller to know the name. What began as the ultimate workwear has evolved into a national association and worldwide obsession with denim and beyond. Denim is also its own world within the vintage business with experts scouring Levi’s tabs for big ‘E’s or little ‘e’s to determine blue jean gold. The Levi’s Vintage Clothing line aims to celebrate (and capitalize on) the brand’s beloved history by recreating classic pieces to original specifications using Levi’s own archives. Until recently, the line had its own informative website but was only available through select retailers. Now Levi’s has launched a stand-alone site that offers the line directly to the public and provides the historical background for many of the pieces. Organized into a 100-year timeline from 1878 to 1978, the new site places the shopping experience squarely in a historical context that invites exploration–whether or not you’re in the market for a $385 jean jacket. That’s right, the price point for these expert reproductions is anything but ‘vintage.’ While not truly vintage pieces, these are certainly the next best thing (to some, maybe better than the real thing). Above are some of my favorite pieces from the collection, but you’ll have to visit here for yourself to learn the details behind them.

Sep 11 / admin

falling for: field jackets for fall

field jackets

GAP field jacket

Banana Republic field coat


This field jacket feature is for anyone like me who never really got over his Barbour jacket envy from all the recent years’ Barbour buzz, but who also could never bring himself to part with the hundreds of simoleons that the real thing costs (secondhand or not). Above is a small sampling of past, present and future field jackets (and field parkas) in the shop. They are “vintage” if you’re already counting as vintage the 1990s, the last time the classic field jacket was having enough of moment in the mainstream spotlight to be carried widely by the likes of J.Crew, GAP and  Banana Republic. They share that collared, hip-length silhouette, some variation of cotton canvas fabric, and pockets-pockets-pockets, but offer plenty of charming variation too: collars can be canvas, corduroy or leather; colors range from undercover earth tones to bright primaries and plaids; interiors come unlined or insulated in flannel. And lightweight unlined parkas (like those pictured last) with their wet weather hoods and inner/outer contrast coloring make a nice alternative to the collared silhouette. Whether you take advantage of the recently “vintage” mainstream brands or the durability and field-weathered charm of its older vintages, the classic field jacket can make a pretty easy and affordable online buy on Etsy or eBay, that is, if you can get over your Barbour envy first.

Aug 27 / admin

Gattaca Style

Gattaca style

Jerome Morrow

goon squad



Vincent's uniform

Gattaca style

Yes, I am aware my vintage style inspiration keeps coming from the wrong direction: the sci-fi future of movies like 1997’s Gattaca. Set in a not so distant future where the population is divided into the genetically engineered haves and have nots, the wardrobe certainly reflects a zeal for personal perfection. There is an alluring 1940s aesthetic at work in the costumes of Oscar-winning designer Colleen Atwood: dark, double-breasted suits with peak lapels and pinstripes; waistcoats, trench coats, and fedoras; Irene’s silver cocktail dress. Inspiration from the past becomes filtered by minimalist elements like the Edwardian length of Vincent’s suit coat (top film still) or the monochromatic suit-shirt-tie-coat-hat combinations of the police force (third still). Throw in the backdrop of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture from the late 1950s and British-designed cars from 1960s and you have a high-style future fresh from the heart of the 20th century.

Jul 21 / admin

(Late) Summer Outfitter

men's summer outfits


men's summer outfits

A pair of vintage-inspired summer looks with menswear staples from classic, mostly American brands:

Top—1950s Thread & Thimble single-button sack jacket in olive green hopsack; 1980s Calvin Klein shirt; Gap (“Lived-In Slim” fit) twill khakis in bright blue; Birkenstock sandals; vintage Italian silk “Symphony Square” by Handcraft, Inc.; Ray-Ban Clubmaster in gold & tortoise.

Bottom—Vintage Brooks Brothers stripe linen shirt; Bally woven leather loafers; vintage straw hat; cutoff J.Crew  white twill trousers; vintage yacht flag pattern belt; Polo Ralph Lauren cotton crew neck sweater.